Langa Lyfe

Currently I am sitting in one of the many coffee shops that I frequent downtown, trying to scavenge for wifi as I do ever Sunday. This time feels a bit different though, because I couldn't simply walk downtown from my old homestay on Signal Hill, but instead waited around the mini-bus rink for 45 minutes in Langa, take a 20 minute trip around the mountain, and then walk 15 minutes for a comfortable place to sit and do work. Life in Langa has been really tough. I feel awful saying this, but I am not the happiest of campers. I lucked out in Sao Paulo and Bo-Kaap with amazing families who made me feel like I was actually living in a home. This isn't the case here. My family here is a big 'ol estrogen party consisting of Mama (a 60-something woman), her 19 year old daughter Shikleh, her 40-something daughter Luleke, and Luleke's 12 year old daughter Prudy. The fact that Libbe (my great IHP homestay sister) and I take cold bucket baths, combat rodents in the roof, wash dishes that have been stagnating in dirty water for two days, or sleep in beds that are broken/smell of urine are all things that blow but are survivable. It's mostly that we have yet to make a real connection with any of them that goes above watching Beyonce's “Life Is But A Dream” documentary or hearing them talk about how much they dislike the neighborhood. Mama and Luleke do not work and from what I can gather spend all day watching soap opera's in Xhosa and cook, which is a far cry from my last two homestay mothers who were some of the hardest working women I have ever met. My Bo-Kaap family had also warned me about the food in Langa, but I am by no means a picky eater and was not worried. Unsurprisingly, they were right. My program pays each host family a stipend for food for us, but the real reason why most families take us on is because they genuinely want an extra guest, or to better understand American culture. The stipend isn't much, but should cover a substantial breakfast and dinner each day for us plus a little bit extra for the host family. Lo-and-behold, on the first morning we arrived in Langa we were woken up by the sound of a handyman painting the home and fixing the pipes. Libbe and I didn't think much of it, but once we started receiving meals that look as if spoiled food has been used, are ¼ the size of the plates they serve themselves, or not at all (like dinner last night) I kinda came to the conclusion as to where our food stipend is going to. I feel awful complaining and acknowledge that I am inherently coming from a place of privilege, but I can't shake the feeling that this home just does not feel like a home. My family in the Bo-Kaap were not particularly well off, but their warmness and engaging personalities more than made up for what was physically lacking. Here, Libbe and I are basically forced to sit by ourselves in our room and chat since we aren't allowed outside of the home by ourself (Mama's rules...) and since we aren't really acknowledged by them in the home. But, I leave on Friday for Vietnam and just keep reminding myself that this isn't permanent.

But now I'm going to take a break from the negativity and talk about all the great things that are happening here in Cape Town. Last week was amazing, mostly because weren't forced to sit in our classroom until Friday. Monday was our “Green Day” and took trips to the Rondelevi Nature Reserve and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens as a class. This botanical gardens is quite honestly the most beautiful place I have ever been to before. Situated on the base of Table Mountain, it boasts drop-dead gorgeous view of the mountain as well as a seemingly uncountable amount of flora that are endemic to South Africa. They even have a Succulent Garden (yes, there is a God) and an Extinct Garden were they cultivate plants that have become extinct in the wild. We spent the day smelling herds in the aromatic garden, tromping through their Seed Bank, and chasing Guinea Fowl through the fields.

Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday were devoted to our case studies. For case studies we split into groups of five and traveled to organizations dealing with our individual topics so that we can formulate a comprehensive 40 minute presentation on the Friday. Millie, Jake, Zoe, Sophie, and I were the “Environment Group” (surprise, surprise) and had a ball. On Tuesday this amazing man named Nazeer took us around the Philippi Horticultural Area, which is a 3,000 hectare plot of land in the middle of the city deemed “Cape Town's Breadbasket”. It's currently being threatened by a housing development that would not even serve the families living in informal settlements on the land and the imminent expansion of the urban edge. We met with farmers, tried some kale, and marveled at the flamingos that mingle with cattle and carrots on the land. Traveling to the PHA was also amazing because I gained some invaluable insight into my Comparative Analysis Project on food security. Wednesday we trekked to SANCCOB (by my cousin David's recommendation) which is a grant-funded organization that works to protect and rehabilitate African Penguins. Spending a few hours laughing and playing with chubby penguins was not a rough way to spend the day. I never realized how big of a draw these penguins are for tourists, and learned that they bring in R$14.5 million a year from gate entry at Boulder's Beach alone. Insane. Thursday, we trekked by train to the winelands of Stellenbosch. Since our professor Ingrid came with us and managed to get us lost (meaning we didn't have time to drink wine...) we had to take a six person tuk-tuk through the town in order to make our appointment at the Sustainability Institute and adjacent Eco-Village. Our tour guide Katie took us through this “eco-oasis” that hosted a kresh (kindergarden), Montessori school for children who suffer fetal-alcohol syndrome (their way of giving back to a community that used to be paid for their farm labor in wine) and 46 homes that were all built using alternative and sustainable building materials. While I did enjoy seeing model informal homes that were built entirely of sandbags from Cape Flats sand, biodigesters implemented in a few homes that convert human waste to methane, and bricks stronger than cement made from clay and straw, I couldn't help but think critically about the Eco-Villages main goal. They spoke of how these building materials and biodigesters can change the way of life for those living in informal settlements but they have yet to implement any of these lofty plans into informal settlements and as of now do not have any plans to.

On Friday night 8 of us girls decided to rent out a room in a hostel downtown and go out for once since the insane amounts of work we have are really bringing us down. After taking a long, hot shower in the hostel (which I didn't feel too bad about considering their hot water is heated entirely by solar power) all of us swapped clothes, did each others make up, and blasted some Kendrick Lamar while getting ready. I finally felt like I was actually a college student and not a semi-functioning zombie! After having a ball at a 90's Hip Hop themed party and a few other bars we decided to call it a night and slept for eons in our comfy hostel beds. Saturday morning a few of us met up with my friend Griffin at his beautiful home which he is sharing with 15 other UNC students. We spent the afternoon braiing, hanging out on their porch, chatting, and comparing our respective study abroad experiences. While we did feel a little bit miffed about how much free time they seem to have and the vast amount of things that they have done while in Cape Town, I think my friends and I came to a common consensus afterwards that we probably are in the right program for our interests. It was so relaxing though to hang out with other students our age who we haven't spent the last 8 weeks in super close quarters with and Griffin's friends are all really really cool. In fact, a few of us made plans to come back downtown Tuesday night and climb Signal Hill to watch the sunset and then go to karaoke with them. But until then, I have 5 papers to write before my flight to Vietnam leaves on Friday!

Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

Millicent, myself and some birdz o' paradise

My home in Langa

The Philippi Horticultural Area

Fat ol' penguinz

Tuk-Tuk rides

Me and Rocky!

Friends finding Nemo

Week 7...

So the 18th marked the milestone of being abroad for two months- wahooo! I figured two months in is the appropriate time to acknowledge that I'm a bit homesick. Not a crippling "I want to sit in my room and cry all night" kind of homesickness, but a definite "I sometimes crave vegan chili from Lowry" type of homesickness. Since I don't really have wifi except in coffee shops it has been really difficult contacting family, friends, and most of all my poppa. And when I check facebook (which is evil I'm still convinced) I get bummed when I see everyone partying it up without me! I think this feeling will definitely pass though and this feeling only reaffirms to me my decision to do a program that jumps from place to place. Whenever I feel a bit down I just have to wait a few days to immerse myself in the excitement of traveling to the next place! And coincidentally enough, I am leaving the beautiful Bo-Kaap this evening and moving to the township of Langa (which is about 15 minutes outside of the central city). 

 But anyways, more about this past week! Despite these crazy insane South-Easter winds that apparently no one is phased by besides us Americans, Cape Town is still just as amazing as when I stepped foot off the plane. I think our professors have eased up a bit on our workload and we as a group are less stressed than we were in Sao Paulo. School-wise, we had guest lecturers come and speak to us about Crime, Transportation, Migration, and Economics within the city, which were all surprisingly thought-provoking and well presented. 

I left off my last post saying that I was heading to Mzoli's, which is a giant brai place in the township of Gugulethu. I went with my friends Allegra and Libbe and were immediately in love with the place. We waited 45 minutes in line, picked out some delicious cuts of rib, chicken, and sausage, and watched as it was barbecued right in front of us! Allegra being the charming girl that she is met Mzoli himself and SOMEHOW got us into the VIP seating section. We sat, stuffed our faces, and danced the day away with some random South African TV star. What a ridiculous day. 

Monday we took trips to different townships in an attempt to better understand the housing crisis that is facing Cape Town. Myself and eight other students traveled to Vahalla Park in the Cape Flats, where we met Auntie Gertie, her daughter Miena, and a bevy of incredibly impressive women who fought teeth and nail to get noticed by the government. Many people in Cape Town who live in informal homes have been on a wait list for 10, 15, 20+ years and are forced to remain in their backyard shanties or informal shacks. The women in Vahalla Park were tired of this oversight by the government and staged a stand-in in the laundry mat that involved almost all of the community. Forced to address the ever-growing protest, city officials finally rescinded and built a huge outdoor recreation area, improved the library, and made plans for more housing units in the community. There we were taken on a tour of the community (we had to stay in the van because we were told it was unsafe for us to walk around) and were invited into Auntie Gertie's home. Inside I had a great talk with her 30-something daughter Miena, who was supporting her three children on a limited budget. We immediately bonded and she told me as I was leaving that she wanted to tell me everything about herself because she could tell I had a pure soul. It was honestly one of the nicest compliments I have ever received and made my heart swell. We are meeting for tea next week hopefully! 

Wednesday we did not have class since it was Eid Mubarak. My host sister Natalie and I spent the morning in a coffee shop to grab a bit of internet and then climbed in the back of our host dad's pick up truck to go to our host sisters home. Auntie Zee had spent all of Tuesday, Tuesday night, and Wednesday morning cooking, so we knew we were in for a treat. Natalie and I were floored when we arrived at her sisters house. We had expected to eat in a cramped apartment much like the one we are living in, but instead found ourselves in an absolutely beautiful home in the Cape Flats that had a pool, a huge flatscreen, and a live-in maid. I did not expect to spend much time in homes that were "extravagant" while I was abroad and was a bit uncomfortable eating roti (this delicious pancake served with curry) while people pranced around in heels. Natalie and I were both super thankful though to be included in a celebration such as this, especially since I will not be home for Thanksgiving and Christmas. We also forced ourselves to do a few ab exercises to make up for the amount of food we ingested. 

My favorite day by far was Saturday. I have felt super lethargic, lazy, and frustrated about the lack of energy/time I have to exercise while I'm abroad. Five of us decided to bone up and climb Table Mountain. We left around 2:45 and after a harrowing two and a half our hike finally made it up. It was the hardest hike that I have ever done and was not made easier by the fact that I am super out of shape. After huffing and puffing our way to the top we realized that it was 100% worth it. The clouds were literally pouring over us and I felt like I was in Avatar… Pictures can not do the climb justice, but climbing Table Mountain is something everyone should do once in their life. Just saying. 

I have to jet because I have lots of packing to do before Langa and limited internet but as per usual I promise to do a more in depth post next week!

Eid dinner with Zaraa and Dexter!

Climbing Table Mountain...

SO FREAKING PRETTY

I can't. 

Weeeeee

 Allegra, Libbe, and I at Mzoli's

Warning: NSFW...

I'm In The Prettiest City On Earth!

Okay okay okay so I have been massively slacking on blog posts but I do not have wifi in my new homestay so... that's the way that the cookie crumbles. I'm actually enjoying the whole disconnected aspect of my new homestay and have been able to bond with my family quicker than expected since me and Natalie (my new IHP roommate) are not constantly typing away on our phones and laptops. All 32 of us arrived into Cape Town early last Saturday morning and had a brief safety talk, poured over our guidebooks like the tourists we are, and tried to fall asleep. Saturday I had the chance to meet up with my friend from home Griffin who is studying in Cape Town through UNC. We walked around this really cool garden called Oranjezicht City Farm, ate some really delicious food at this place called the Daily Deli (which is my now my favorite cafe in town), and just caught up on things. It was really refreshing to see a familiar face that reminded me of home and to nab a meal that cost like $2 since I unfortunately misplaced my 450 rand weekly food stipend. Saturday night a few of us went to an Ethiopian restaurant on Long Street and then to this bar called Bob's. As many of you know dancing is probably my least favorite activity but my two friends Emma and Sophie know how to break it down. Their moves attracted a dance circle of like 30 South Africans who proceeded to have a dance circle that I was eventually coerced into joining. I'm usually super nervous about dancing but the live and let live mentality of the South African's made me forget my inhibitions and just have fun. And I got to go to bed by 1 am which is always a great thing for me because I'm super lame.

Sunday we met our homestay families. For two weeks we are living in the Bo-Kaap, which is a muslim neighborhood famed for its super colorful homes, breathtaking views of Table Mountain, and proximity to the CBD of Cape Town. It is quintessentially a township because it was classified as a muslim neighborhood during apartheid but as far as townships go is nothing like the ones that still exist on the Cape Flats. My host family lives in a little apartment up on a slope of Signal Hill above the center of Bo-Kaap. My home consists of Auntie Zee (a 60ish year old woman), her husband Ismael (a construction worker), Mone (a parrot who doesn't shut up), Natalie (my IHP roommate), and 5 newborn kittens! Auntie Zee and Ismael remind me a lot of Judy and my father. Ismael works far too hard, is incredibly sweet, and loves nothing more than to sit at his window and watch over the neighborhood. Auntie Zee is one of the few homestay moms who still works and is incredibly proud of the fact that she has held the same job in the VW dealership for 27 years. Every morning she feeds the five stray cats who come to our door, talks nonstop to Mone, and provides a delicious breakfast for us before we go to class.

Much like my family in Brazil, my favorite part of my homestay has been the dinners. Living with a muslim family has been pretty interesting, and our dinner discussions have caused me to think critically about privilege and the role of the woman in modern day society. Auntie Zee is one of the sassiest, brashest, and independent women I have met yet stands by the claim that it is a woman's job to be submissive to her husband. She believes that in order to avoid fights a woman must always listen to and obey her husband, which is a sentiment that was echoed by her niece who is my age. While I disagree with her claim, I enjoyed biting my tongue for once and listening to her priorities. Although we are still getting to know our family, Ismael has opened up to Natalie and I a bit about what it was like being a muslim man during apartheid. He recognizes that many of the Blacks in SA had it worse than he did during the height of conflict in the 1980's, but still can't believe how dehumanizing it was being a person of color. It is incredibly hard to wrap my head around the concept of apartheid but these conversations are really helpful in understanding the strife, pain, and lasting scars that this type of forced segregation placed on South Africans. I can't help but feel a pang of guilt being a White individual when I hear stories.

On a much lighter note, I love Cape Town a helluva a lot more than Sao Paulo. Workload wise I feel as if homework is 1000 times more manageable and that the lectures, site visits, and readings that are assigned are more useful. We actually got to hike Lion's Head as a group for a few hours during class on Tuesday and had a class outside on Friday, which would have NEVER happened in Brazil. Every morning I get to walk by like 3 outdoor markets and wake up to the sight of Table Mountain. Add in the fact that almost everyone speaks English and I am one happy camper. Something I really missed while in Brazil was natural beauty and the oceans, mountains, and gardens of Cape Town more than make up for it. Speaking of, yesterday 20 other students and I did a bus tour of Cape Point which took us through False Bay (where lots of Shark Week is filmed!), Boulders Beach (where all the penguins are!), and the Cape of Good Hope (the most southwestern tip of Africa). It was so so beautiful and I loved nothing more than spending the day outside climbing on rocks and playing with lil' birdz. Today I am going to Mzoli's which is a butchershop in a township called Gugulethu. Apparently you go there, pick a cut of meat, have it BBQ'ed right in front of you, and dance and drink the day away. Wahoooo! Oh, and this post goes out to Barbara who has been hounding me about posting. Happy Birthday Barb!

Me and Griffin!

 My homestay kittens!

 Mone the parrot

 View of Cape Town from the top of Lion's Head

 Me and my friend Hayley!

 Penguins on Bolders Beach

Cape of Good Hope!

Double Rainbow in the Bo-Kaap

Va-va-va-cation

Okay so my bad, I'm in Cape Town now, but already wrote this and forgot to upload it. So if anyone still cares about my rantings and vacation in Brazil, here ya' go. 

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As I write this, I am on a bus hurtling down the side of a mountain towards São Paulo. The ocean gives way to lush rainforests, scraggly looking cows on ranches, and eventually the periphery zones that I have been fortunate enough to spend some time in these past few weeks. And in a few hours I will be on a plane heading towards South Africa (what?!). Never have I ever been jumbled with so many nerves and feelings of excitement. 

While I am extremely anxious to land down in Cape Town, it's hard to fully immerse myself in the experience when I am less than excited to go back to class. I could rant for hours about how disappointed I am in my professors expectations, grading scales, and overall demeanor but that wouldn't be particularly enjoyable to read. Long story short is that our 3 professors do not respect each other due to some ridiculous hierarchical scale they hold which is severely impacting our experience. We have received two grades back since us 32 students have been abroad and our journal grades were dismal at best. I'm talking students at top-tier universities getting 1/20 on assignments bad. A professor accidentally drop boxed his journal grades to all of us, with comments singing to the tune of "this subject is useless to study" and "these writings make no sense". When we brought up these concerns our opinions as students were undervalued, we were talked to like children, and were left to embark on "vacation" with immense feelings of resentment, frustration, and anger. 

Despite these setbacks, I am incredibly thankful to have had the chance to vacation on Ilhabela with 11 of the coolest people I have ever met. Ilhabela, which quite literally translates to "beautiful island", is a tiny island off the coast of Brazil and is roughly 4 hour bus ride from the hustle and bustle of São Paulo. 92% of the island is a nature preserve and is extremely well protected (unlike the national parks right now in America apparently). We departed for the island at the crack of dawn Saturday morning and arrived at our beautiful hostel just in time to spend the day at the beach drinking coconut water and tossing around a frisbee. 

I am happy to say that most of this vacation was spent doing just that and I would not have had it any other way. Although many of my friends on the program decided to make the trek up to Rio, I have become a boring homebody who wanted to do nothing more than explore an island and get to know some other people on my program a bit better. Monday we spent a good 4 hours looking for the trailhead for a 2 hour hike. As we traversed up through the rainforest we spent the day exploring natural pools, standing under waterfalls, and eating fresh, massive avocados. That night 6 of us girls spent the night drinking wine and talking about the most life-changing classes we have taken, sharing our favorite books, and trying to contain our South Africa excitement. 

Tuesday we had the bright idea to rent bikes on the island and trek to Praia Da Pinto which is one of the many beaches on the island. We basically ended up biking 13km which was a literal pain in the ass, but really fun once we dived into the water of our totally empty beach. Spending the day swimming, relaxing, and taking photos was much needed and we ended the day with some of the best tasting coconut popsicles I have ever had in my life. The rest of vacation was pretty much the same- relaxing, cooking with my friends, and walking around the beautiful island. Side note, penguins from Patagonia occasionally get swept up by currents and brought to Ilhabela which explains the dead penguin we saw during our bike ride. A very weird thing to see on a tiny island in Brazil. 

Anyways here are some pictures of Ilhabela!

My friend Millie in front of our hostel!

Praia Da Pinto

Hanging out on Praia Da Pinto

Ilhabela is toooo beautiful 

See above...