My Week Real Quick!

Alright alright so I started writing a post about Cabucu de Baixo, which is a favela community that we are conducting a three-day case study in. It's an incredibly interesting experience and is forcing me to think critically about a lot of academic and personal beliefs that I held before coming on this program. BUT I then realized that I hadn't blogged in a while and wanted to just give a brief lowdown about my past week and then post later this week more in depth about my case study.

This past week was incredibly dry academically. I went on one site visit besides Cabucu de Baixo. Call me spoiled, but I have been pretty impressed by most of the organizations/people who we visit during site visits. My trip to Nossa Sao Paulo (I think that's its name, goes to show how valuable it was...) was a total bore. It was advertised to us as an organization that was focused on urban sustainability and instead 12 of us found ourselves trying not to fall asleep in a cramped room while we looked at survey data for two hours. It got so bad that two people next to me started to play "Fuck, Marry, Kill" about celebrities and our classmates alike to pass the time. Class-wise the week was a lot better. Lectures came and gave us a brief lowdown on the political climate of Brazil, its status as an economic powerhouse, and the revitalization plan of Cabucu de Baixo. My favorite academic part of the week was by far my Urban Development and Sustainable Environments class where we discussed if there could ever be a "sustainable mega-event" inside a city. Us 32 students all come from very different academic backgrounds and its really great to converse about the revitalization aspects that a mega-event brings to a city vs. its grave environmental impact. In fact, it impressed me SO much that I've decided to write my comparative paper for my Politics and Development course about exactly that!

Okay, on to the more fun part. Wednesday we had a "DIY Morning" so Emma and I took a lil' trip to Bixiga, which is an Italian community in Sao Paulo. An organization called Novolhar Bixiga had reached out to IHP about the possibility of coming to learn a bit more about their organization and the community. Once we got there though we realized that they had forgotten and were forced to wing it. Which actually turned out to be AWESOME because we got to hang out with a bunch of 11 year olds and talk to them about the kinds of food they ate (which is pertinent to my final Comparative Analysis paper) and dancing (which is what Emma is all about). They then showed us some Capoeira, which is a Brazilian dance that employs some crazy martial arts and aerobatics. We then got to meet this 95 year old nugget of a man who lived next door to the organization. For the past 15 years he has cooked 300L of soup a day for homeless peoples in the community. He eventually convinced a local steakhouse to donate 20kg of meat a day to his operation. Talk about gleaning for a cause. I am telling you though, this man was the shit.

Friday after class we stopped by the bars near Mackenzie University and hung out with some students and taught them how to play Flip Cup! This seems to be a pattern. You would not believe how crowded bars around the university get on Thursday and Friday afternoons. There is barely any room to walk and people are drunk and fighting by 4 pm. We then had a gathering with us 32 students, faculty, and our host families to celebrate the experiences that we have been having. Meeting everyone was great, but our host brothers stupid girlfriend came along and was a bummer the whole night. Allegra and I got pretty emotional when we got up to speak about how much we love the fam (Legs cried, I laughed awkwardly) and we ate more pineapple than I would care to admit. We then went to a bar and talked for a while and somehow didn't get back until 4am.

We then had to be up and at em by 8am to go back to the case study community and help with an environmental celebration that consisted of planting trees, painting plastic flowers, coloring with kids, and walking around their awesome community garden. There were kittens there too that I couldn't stop playing with which was a welcome lil' surprise. I also made friends with a five year old boy Victor Gabriel as soon as I took out my frisbee. He was a rambunctious little nugget and I got quite the workout retrieving my frisbee and chasing him around. That night we all went out to Joy Club, which is a hip hop club in Vila Madalena. I am not a dancer by any means but they played hip-hop hits that were popular in 2009 so I instantly felt comfortable. We didn't get home until 4:30am, and then I had to be up at 8am for a trip to this market called Embu Das Artes in the wayyyyyyy north of town.

After an hour and a half long bus ride Emma, Allegra, Natalie W, Kidane, and I arrived to the market and instantly fell in love. There were so many stalls boasting beautifully crafted sandals, bags, jewelry pieces, and... PUPPIES AND KITTENS! There were actually at least 100 kittens and puppies up for adoption I lost my shit. Anyways, the market is located in this little sleepy part of Sao Paulo that epitomizes what I though Brazil was going to be like. There was a light rain coming over the hills and a woodwind band played as we sampled crepes on a stick, some cool coconut treats, coconut water, and tapioca. Thank god I walked so much or I would probably feel worse about myself. I bought a really pretty turquoise necklace and wanted to buy a dog. After the market I went to a soccer game near Clinicas. Corinthias and Cruziero tied 0-0 and it was an incredibly uneventful game. Probably because I was and still am exhausted. But at least I can say that I have been to a soccer game in Brazil because people here are futbol FANATICS. I have never heard so much cursing during a game before.

I prom prom promise that I will have a more interesting blog post later in the week but for now I must sleep.

 Emma teaching some dancing (or learning Capoeria) in Bixiga

The man with the soup. Gotta love him.  

 Futbolllll!

 Leather maps at the Embu Das Artes Market. 

Gabriel Victor and me before he started crying. 

 Emma and a crepe on a stick at the market!

Hayley, me, and some kittenz!

My Life Is A Joke

No seriously though. Since I have essentially been running around like a chicken with its head cut off these past two weeks I haven't really had a chance to sit down and reflect on how incredibly privileged I am. Not only am I a white, middle-class, American female, but I also have a family who is financially stable and values education enough to send me to a college that supports adventures like the one I am embarking on.

I don't know exactly what I expected when I signed up for this program, especially when it came to the homestay aspect. I love meeting new people and since I did not grow up in your typical nuclear family I somewhat craved the experience that living with a homestay family would provide. The Perini's are basically the "American Dream" family transplanted to Sao Paulo and I am in love with it. My "parents" have been together since they were fifteen, we have happy hour every friday with their parents, host siblings, and friends, and I have a golden retriever named Frej for godsakes. I really don't know their exact economic bracket but the Perini's are well-off enough to have a housekeeper and a cook. I am incredibly thankful for my upbringing and wouldn't trade it for the world, but it's incredible to experience a lifestyle that is both foreign in location and in practice. I come home, have a delicious homecooked dinner with the whole family, and then watch soap operas with everyone in Portuguese until it's time to pretend to do homework. To say I am privileged would be the understatement of the century.

Did I mention that the Perini's have a beach apartment at Guaruja, which is probably the prettiest island I HAVE EVER BEEN TO EVER. Well. Actually the only island. But I digress. See what I said about my life being a joke. After Friday family happy hour, my host fam, Allegra, and I packed into our car and drove to Guaruja which is about 2 hours outside of Sao Paulo. Eager to escape the dirtiest and biggest city we have ever experienced Allegra and I could not contain our excitement as soon as we got to the beach. There were clear blue waters, islands raising above the ocean mist, and girls and boys alike in the smallest bikini's ever. It really was a Brazilian paradise come to life. I spent all day drinking Skol (which is a popular beer here) and tanning on the beach because my parents and host sister are probably the biggest peer pressurers ever when it comes to drinking. Once our parents went back to the apartment Allegra and I talked with our sister Carol and her 8+ friends who for the most part spoke English! They were super super cool and would not stop saying "shut up bitch" in English. They thought it was freaking hilarious. We also taught them Flip Cup which they were in love with and we got the ultimate compliment from our sister that we were the best host siblings that they have hosted. So cheers to that!

Sunday Allegra and I went to Liberdade, which is the largest Japanese community in the world outside of Japan. They have this huge Sunday outdoor market full of trinkets, food, and gifts. I bought a headband, a ring, a necklace with a pepper on it, 2 plates for my South African host families, and this yummy cake thing from a food stand that I can't remember. I wanted to buy a succulent because it was only 5 Reals but I could not possibly keep it alive. Or get it through customs. Oh, and I finally ran today which is good because I am convinced that my family is trying to kill me because they feed me too much every day. But if that is my biggest problem then my life is actually a joke. Also, my dad just called me out for not being deep enough in my blog posts so apologies to the five of you who read my blog. I'm just tired all the time and leave blog writing until 11PM. Perhaps I will write one with more pizzaz during one of the classes that I'm not paying attention to tomorrow. Ciao!

 How crowded my subway ride is every day. No wonder I'm always late to class. 

Me and my host dog Frej just palin' around

 Our big ol' Brazilian/Italian Family after Happy Hour!

 Getting nutty with a coconut on the beach

Guaruja, AKA PARADISE

 Teaching Brazilians Flip Cup. He lost. 

 Those yummy and weird cakes I ate at Liberdade

My favorite picture from the market. 

On a more serious note, my thoughts and prayers go out to DC and the families of those who were affected by the atrocity that occurred at the Navy Yard today. While in a country that is constantly being characterized by its crime, it is sad to see my own country affected by such a preventable tragedy. I suggest we abide by Chris Rock's words of wisdom.

Two Weeks Down, Two To Go

Alrighty alrighty alrighty, it has been two weeks now and I feel like it has only been a few days in the good ol' Sao Paulo. I feel a bit more comfortable whenever I take the subway, walk to class, or attempt to order something in Portuguese. Spoiler... I still can't speak a lick of Portuguese. "Thank you", "Sorry, "How much", and "Where is the bathroom" can pretty much get you wherever you need to go. My birthday was this past Monday and considering how god awful my past three birthdays have been I honestly was not expecting much. Allegra and I arrived late to class (per usual) and I was greeted by 34 people singing a rousing rendition of "Happy Birthday" and a brigadeiro, which is a traditional Brazilian bonbon. Real talk, not a huge fan. It's a little chewy and condensed-milky in my opinion. I got a pang of homesickness later in the night and started skyping Daniela in my kitchen when BAM, my host parents come bursting in the kitchen with a delicious chocolate mousse cake, singing "Happy Birthday" in Portuguese and English. Plus they gave me some Havaianas which is pretty nifty! Then I got to Skype some of my best friends and my father which is always nice.

Tuesday I took a trip to the Alana Institute which works on curbing the exploitation of children in the media. I didn't really understand how they went about doing that, and the explanation was probably quite literally lost in translation, but they also provide afterschool care, musical lessons, tutoring, painting lessons to seniors, and a whole host of other things in a favela town. What really impressed me was A) the fact that they received all the funding from private entrepreneurs which is almost unheard of in a periphery city and B) their operation is being threatened by the state because they technically live in an environmentally protected flood zone and could be displaced at any moment. In their place a Linear Park would be built. Oswaldo and Amanda of Alana were extremely kind and forthcoming when we visited Alana, cramming us into their tiny little office and answering all of our questions while we dined on apples and a "nutritional cake" that their nutritionist had made (so so great that they have a nutritionist who feeds the 364 kids who come through Alana everyday).

This visit contrasted quite nicely with our visit to Cidade Jardim, which is a planned community located  near the business district of the city and the Pinheiros River. This river is probably the most polluted river I have ever experienced in my life. The smell of the sewage that comes from all over the city comes to rest in the stagnant water of the river making even the nicest part of town spell god awful. I digress. Jardim is a planned community for the elite of Sao Paulo that contains a mall at the base of the complex and interchanging residential and corporate towers on top. I do enjoy the idea of a concentrated community such as this because in a city this crowded any way to avoid driving (and emitting dem gasses) is a good plan. Walking into the mall though we couldn't shake the feeling of disgust as well saw the favelas we had seen the day before replaced with Fendi, Gucci, Cartier, etc. There was a yacht LITERALLY in a store in the mall, and the playground on the roof of the mall offered some of the most amazing views of the city. As we observed this never ending landscape we were all shocked to see a tiny favela covered in the shadows of this massive and exclusive community.

On Thursday we had the pleasure of meeting with Graffiteros (graffiti artists) and Pixadores (artists who tag inconceivable spaces) to learn about the art movement that is sweeping Sao Paulo. While Sao Paulo is the definition of a concrete jungle many inhabitants attempt to beautify the area with amazing works of graffiti art. These beautiful pieces are contrasted by crude tags by Pixadores, who tag almost any blank space they can find to make their mark on the very city that does not accept them. We were shown around by Amanda Dorian, who is arguably one of the most revered female Graffiteros in Brazil. As we walked through the Vila Madalena (a super hip part of town) and Beco De Batman (an alley COVERED in street art) I was astounded by the way these artists managed to transgress the social norms of the city and beautify it in their own unique way.

A common theme that rang true to me through this week was the conflict that Sao Paulo is experiencing with first nature (untouched, natural areas that are typically considered "beautiful") and second nature (man-made structures that exhibit a different kind of beauty). My scope of study has caused me to really only consider the value of first nature, but the struggle between the Alana Institute and the government and the Graffiteros and blank space have caused me to redefine "beauty" in terms of human rights. Had i considered the idea of those living near Alana being displaced by a park a few months ago, I would have automatically vied for the creation of public space. Now that I have seen the faces of those who's lives could be uprooted because of human intervention, I am starting to reconsider what I consider to be beautiful and sound.

Anyways, enough of that. I'm going to Guaruja tomorrow with my host family and Allegra, which is a beach an hour and a half from Sao Paulo. Wahooo!

 Recycling units inside of the Alana Institute

 View from the top of the Cidade Jardim. Favelas are directly below. 

Me and Allegra, my IHP homestay sister!

The beauty of Beco de Batman

Graffiti in Beco de Batman

The City Of Twelve Million

HEY GUYS, I'M IN BRAZIL! The fact that I'm here does not seem real at this point. Every morning when I leave my house and walk to the subway (which is a MASSIVE and terrifying) to get to school, I feel like I'm walking to the Wheaton Metro to get to work in DC. When I walk through the city or down Avenida Paulista I feel like I'm in any other giant city, except on steroids. Minus the whole not being able to speak Portuguese thing, the adjustment to a new country is much easier than I expected it to be.

I can't stop thinking about Sao Paulo as this massive, consumptive monster of a city that eats everyone up and spits the unlucky ones out to the periphery zones. The fact that my homestay family and I are two hours away from some other people in my class and are still considered to be in the same city is a bizarre concept to get used to. I know I'm getting a bit redundant, but try wrapping your head around the idea that twelve million people (probably more if you consider all the ones that the government chooses to ignore who live in informal settlements) are living together and fighting for the same resources is mind-boggling. I am definitely enjoying myself, but I miss nature. I love Brazil, but the slice that I have seen so far is not really my cup of tea

BUT ANYWAYS, on a lighter note, I got to start my day off yesterday with a run through Parque Aclimacao, which is near my house. Finally being able to run was quite the relief, and being able to do it on a nice level path in beautiful green space made it all the better! It was incredibly crowded though, with runners, walkers, bikers, skateboarders, and dogwalkers fighting for a piece of the path. I also had the pleasure of visiting the Museu Afro-Brasil which alluded me to the influence that the Afro-Brasilian community has had on Brazil as a whole. The museum is also located in the "central park" of Brazil, the Parque Ibirapuera.

Since I've only been here a week a lot of time that I have spent in the city has been in the classroom, going over orientation materials, survival Portuguese classes, and attempting to explore the area around my classroom. The amount of lecturing that was occurring got a bit old, which is why my trip to a periphery community called Cidade Tiradentes was so incredibly moving and liberating. In the 1970's the area served as a public housing experiment and tons of giant concrete buildings painted bright colors were erected to serve the growing need of the community. People began to flock to the area in the hopes that the government would provide more housing and set up informal homes while they waited. Once they realized that the government was not going to help anytime soon they began to make more permanent fixes to their homes such as added bricks, jerryrigging pipes for running water, or haphazardly adding electric lines. As more and more people lost hope the informal settlements began to grow, eventually taking over the landscape.

Although the people of the city are extremely impoverished, those we met were so incredibly willing to share their stories with us ranging from the health centers that were finally brought to the area to the hopefulness they have about the potential for job creation due to the new World Cup Stadium being built 30 minutes away. I have never been to any sort of favela or slum before, and did not know what to expect, but the kindness and perseverance of those in Cidade Tiradentes was inspiring to say the least.

So much more has happened but I am far too lazy to blog about it now considering I got home at four am from Vila Madalena (shoutout to all of the people who think I'm lame and stay in all the time, ayyyy) and need to sleep and catch up on some HW.

Besos from Brazil!

 Me in front of the Museu de Arte de Sao Paulo, which has great views of the city!

 Avenida Paulista, which is a major strip that contains tons of businesses and shops near school. 

 Informal housing in Cidade Tiradentes.